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By Ryszard T.Kominek, Piotr Perzanowski

T-72 M1 (Kagero Topshots 11019)

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DoweL the hole should be 1/4 in. or 1 7/64 in. If you are really fussy, an F drill creates a hole between those two sizes. 1 . Laminate wood to form the cab or rough out the cab from a larger block. Dense hardwoods, such as maple or Cab The cab is made from a solid block of wood. I often use local birch, which is quite hard and readily available in large sizes, so lamination is not needed. The cab is a wedge shape and is glued directly to the frame. Fenders, walnut, are preferred to soft­ wood for most if not all of the dump truck because of their greater durability and dent resistance.

3 2 ) . 1 . Cut two pieces. They should b e Ih 6 in. wider than the trailer "frame" (which is really the width of the hollow core ) . TRAILER HITCH F 2. Glue the axle housings to the trailer bottom. Check their location by holding the wheels in place so that they fit nicely in the wheel well. There should be about 1 in. from the edge of the wheel well to the axle center. 3. Lay out the axle holes. Again, check by holding the Side View wheels in place. Mark the center with an awl or center punch.

4 5 ) . 2. Drill holes using a por­ table drill. Be careful that the drill does not weave about. Drilling at a slight angle is not serious, but try not to move side to side as you drill or the hole will be bell­ mouthed. Use a drill press if you want, but it is a little awkward to clamp the truck in a vertical position. Drill an experimental hole 4. Plane or sand this bevel, keeping the width of the in a scrap of fender wood, on bumper consistent along its length. the end grain. If that doesn't work, take the time to set up 5.

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